The Subway Hype

Zions Subway canyon is probably the most well-known technical canyon in Zion National Park. It is actually the first canyon I did when I was about 14 years old. Back then, it wasn’t nearly as popular, and we had the canyon to ourselves. Today it is extremely popular and if you do it, you’ll likely end up crossing paths with many people. So does it live up to the hype? In my opinion, no. I think it is very overrate compared to may other technical canyoneering options out there for several reasons:

Effort vs Reward – The most famous part “The Subway” section is very short and you have to put in a 10 mile day to complete this trip from top to bottom.

Scenery – While the canyon itself is beautiful as most canyons are, it isn’t the most beautiful canyon I’ve ever seen.

Technicality – it is a very low technicality canyon with the biggest rappel being approximately 30 feet. If doing the canyon I’d strongly recommend adding either Russell Gulch or Das Boot to the approach which make the canyon a bit more technical with more and bigger rappels.

Solitude – A key aspect I love in canyoneering is the sense of being alone in the world. Unfortunately, descending The Subway no longer offers that solitary experience. Its popularity has surged to the extent that obtaining permits involves a lottery, and encountering multiple groups is almost inevitable. During my most recent trip in November, we came across at least 10 groups.

Permits – I recognize the necessity of permitting for this heavily visited canyon, and I support that approach. However, obtaining a permit to descend this canyon can be exceptionally difficult given its popularity.

Those are the primary reasons I don’t think The Subway is as amazing as some people make it sound. However, when you typically hear other people, that don’t do much canyoneering describe The Subway, you’ll likely hear things like “best hike in the world”, “prettiest canyon I’ve ever seen”, and “a must do trip”. I agree it is beautiful and worth doing, but in no way is it the best or prettiest canyoneering route out there, or even in Zions in my opinion. If you are into just hiking, then those statements above might be true.

If you’re into technical canyoneering here are some canyons in Zion that come to mind as better use of time if you are visiting for a short period of time – Pine Creek, Spry, Mystery, Kolob, Imlay and, Heaps. Each of these canyons are significantly more technical and each have some amazingly pretty parts. If you are traveling to other locations here are some samples of places that I think are by far prettier than The Subway. Spain/Na Mora Canyon – Costa Rica/Gata Fiera – Australia/Claustral Canyon – Switzerland/Lodrino – Mexico/Matacanes

With all that said I do think The Subway is worth doing if you haven’t done it, and that is why this past weekend I took a couple of my kids to descend this canyon. I want them to be able to say they’ve done it and see the unique features of The Subway. I just have a hard time when I hear people claim The Subway is the best canyon in the world as that doesn’t align with my experience.

With that said here are details on descending the canyon from the top down:

Permits:

Permits are a prerequisite for hiking through The Subway in Zion National Park, with the top-down route necessitating a permit acquired through a lottery system. This system is implemented to manage the substantial demand for this renowned route. Adequate planning is crucial, considering the permit application timelines. The lottery typically commences months prior to the hiking season, and the acquisition of a permit depends on chance. In instances where the lottery outcome is unfavorable, last-minute drawings are available, though having a contingency plan is advisable.

The Advance Lottery: Two Months in Advance An online Advance Lottery is conducted for all excursions, spanning from April to October, into the Left Fork of North Creek (Subway) to secure a Wilderness permit reservation:

• Online submissions must be completed two months before the intended trip, allowing applicants to select up to three prioritized dates. Here is the link for where you can apply for permits on the Zion National Park Website.
• Each individual is restricted to one request per canyon per month.
• Notification emails regarding the status of the request are sent on the 5th day of the subsequent month.
• Any unreserved spaces in the Left Fork (Subway) following the Advance Lottery can be reserved through Calendar Reservations or the Last-Minute Drawing.
• A non-refundable fee of $5.00 is associated with the Advance Lottery application. Interested individuals are encouraged to apply for the Advance Lottery to initiate the permit acquisition process.

The Last-Minute Drawing: 7-2 Days in Advance For those seeking Wilderness permits for canyoneering when both the Advance Lottery and Calendar Reservations are fully booked, the Last-Minute Drawing is an option. This option allows individuals to try for any remaining reservations for permits.

• Participants can submit one Last-Minute Drawing request per individual, per canyon. Applications are accepted from seven days before the trip date until two days before at 12:00 pm MT.
• The online drawing occurs at 1:00 pm MT, two days before the trip date. Following the drawing, applicants receive a notification email indicating the status of their request.
• Any unclaimed spaces from the Last-Minute Drawing become available as Walk-in Permits the day before the trip date.
• A non-refundable fee of $5.00 is associated with the Last-Minute Drawing application. Interested individuals are encouraged to apply for the Last-Minute Drawing to secure their permits.
• Here is the link for the last minute drawing.

Gear:

• Rappelling Gear: The Subway involves several rappels, so you’ll need a harness, helmet, and a suitable rappelling device.
• Footwear: Sturdy and comfortable hiking shoes with good traction are essential for navigating rocky terrain and stream crossings.
• Clothing: Wear moisture-wicking layers, as you may get wet during the hike. A wetsuit or dry suit might be necessary, depending on the season.
• Backpack: Bring a backpack to carry essentials and any gear you might need. Ensure it’s comfortable for long hikes.
• Food: Ensure an adequate supply of lightweight, non-perishable snacks and meals that provide sustained energy. Opt for high-calorie, nutrient-dense options like energy bars, trail mix, and dehydrated meals. Consider dietary restrictions and pack accordingly for a satisfying and nourishing hike.
• Water: Carry water for the hike and be prepared to filter water as needed.
• Navigation Tools: Carry a map, compass, or GPS device to navigate the trail.

Subway Overview:

• Start Point: Embark on your top-down adventure at the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead, the customary starting point for The Subway’s top-down route. The trail guides you into the Left Fork of North Creek, leading to the apex of The Subway section. You’ll need route finding skills to stay on the trail, a GPS is useful to help find the route.
• Technical Sections: Immerse yourself in The Subway’s renowned technical features, navigating through narrow slots, negotiating potholes, and executing multiple rappels. You can expect up to 4 rappels if only doing the standard route (not including Russell Gulch or Das Boot explained below). In addition, be prepared for downclimbing, swimming, and hiking on slick rock. The pinnacle of this experience is the iconic “Subway” section, characterized by its distinctive and curving walls.

• Length and Duration: Prepare for a journey spanning approximately 9 to 10 miles along the top-down route, a venture demanding a full day or more for completion, contingent on your pace and prevailing conditions. An early morning start is advisable to maximize daylight and ensure a timely exit. Many groups end up hiking out in the dark. I was once part of a group that had some individuals exiting in the dark due to their exhaustion and speed from the long day of hiking.
• Adding Difficulty and Length: For those seeking an even more challenging and extended adventure, consider incorporating either Russell Gulch or Das Boot to the approach. This addition introduces additional technical complexity, including more and larger rappels (4 rappels up to 100 feet in Russell Gulch, 3 rappels up to 65 feet in Das Boot), transforming the Subway expedition into a longer, more demanding day. When contemplating this enhanced adventure, meticulous planning becomes paramount. Assess your team’s proficiency in advanced canyoneering skills, ensure everyone is equipped with the appropriate gear, and factor in the extended time needed to navigate the augmented challenges. This undertaking is recommended for experienced canyoneers seeking and requires additional permits.
• Water Crossings: Anticipate encounters with stream crossings, necessitating traversals through water, particularly within the Left Fork of North Creek. Equip yourself with water shoes to facilitate these crossings, and embrace the inevitability of getting wet—avoid unnecessary efforts to stay dry as part of embracing the immersive journey.
• Seasonal Considerations: Optimal times for this hike are the spring and fall, offering milder temperatures. Summer brings the challenge of intense heat, while winter introduces icy conditions. Plan accordingly based on the season, ensuring you have the appropriate gear for the prevailing weather conditions.
• Exit Climb Out: The culmination of the top-down Subway adventure involves an exit climb out of the canyon. This ascent can be demanding, requiring physical endurance and possibly involving scrambling over rocky terrain. Be prepared for this challenging portion, and pace yourself as you ascend from the depths of the canyon to the trailhead. Consider the potential impact of fatigue, especially after a long day of hiking.

Subway Sights:

• Subway Section: The heart of the adventure lies in the renowned “Subway” section, where nature has sculpted the sandstone walls into a mesmerizing display of curving forms. As you traverse this segment, be prepared to marvel at the unique geological wonders that give the canyon its name. The interplay of light and shadow within the Subway creates an otherworldly atmosphere, making it a highlight of the journey.
• Waterfalls: Throughout the descent, the trail introduces you to cascading waterfalls, adding an auditory and visual sensation to the canyoneering experience. These natural features enhance the scenic beauty of the surroundings, providing moments of tranquility amid the rugged terrain.
• Swimming Holes: Embrace the element of water as you encounter inviting swimming holes along the way. These refreshing points offer an opportunity to cool off, relax, and appreciate the immersive nature of the canyon environment.
• Dinosaur Tracks: About halfway from the subway section to the exit there are Dinosaur tracks. The region is known for its dinosaur tracks, a fascinating reminder of the prehistoric life that once roamed these landscapes. Take a moment to connect with the geological history, appreciating the subtle marks left by creatures that lived millions of years ago.
• Flora and Fauna: Zion National Park boasts diverse flora and fauna, and the Subway trek provides glimpses of this rich biodiversity. Keep an eye out for native plant species adapted to the unique canyon environment and be prepared for potential wildlife sightings, enhancing the overall natural experience.

Important Tips:

• Leave No Trace: Practice Leave No Trace principles to minimize your impact on the environment.
• Check Weather Conditions: Be aware of weather forecasts, as flash floods can be a concern in slot canyons.
• Experience Level: The top-down route is suitable for experienced hikers and canyoneers due to its technical nature.
• Car Shuttle: Arrange your car shuttle by leaving one vehicle at the exit trailhead during your journey to the top, ensuring you have your keys with you. If there are faster hikers in the group, consider having them hike ahead after the subway section to retrieve the car at the approach trailhead. This allows both vehicles to be at the exit when the rest of the group concludes the hike. This efficient setup streamlines the exit process and contributes to a smoother overall experience.

In conclusion, while the Subway in Zion National Park undoubtedly offers a captivating and unique canyoneering experience, it may not entirely live up to the lofty expectations and widespread acclaim it often receives. The allure of solitude has diminished due to its popularity, and obtaining permits can be a challenging task. Although the Subway showcases beautiful geological formations and presents an opportunity for an adventurous day in nature, it falls short of being unequivocally the best canyoneering route, especially when considering other technically challenging options available in Zion. While the Subway is undoubtedly worth experiencing, acknowledging its limitations amidst the vast array of canyoneering opportunities in Zion fosters a more nuanced appreciation for the diverse wonders this national park has to offer.

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