This weekend, I had the experience of descending and then climbing Pleiades Canyon, this was a unique ice climbing adventure. The journey unfolded within my favorite slot canyon in Moab. Rappelling a series of short drops adds an extra layer of excitement to the climb.
To start we snowshoed into the canyon, breaking trail through fresh snow. This was a bit of work since the snow was deep and the path completely covered. Once we arrived at the first waterfall we began rappelling into the canyon, utilizing various anchors. We were prepared to build natural anchors like rock cairns, but all the drops had solid anchors in place that we were able to use. The descent offered a dynamic landscape, with anchors strategically placed among the intriguing ice features.
The rappels presented a varied challenge, ranging from quick descents of 20 to 30 feet to a 70-foot drop at the culmination of the canyon. We were well-prepared for sections in the middle that sometimes have limited ice or poor conditions. We were ready to consider options like setting up a top rope or climbing out through short ice pitches. All last option was the prospect of hiking back to the car from the bottom, which would was the absolute last result with the presence of deep, untraveled snow. This would have been very exhausting and dangerous with the potential for terrain trap avalanche conditions. Fortunately the ice was good and we were able to climb out the way we came in.
Climbing out demanded a nuanced approach, with pitches showcasing diverse characteristics. The initial climb was a gradual 50 foot climb. This is quickly followed by a pleasant 70 feet of lower-angle ice leading to a mysterious dark room. The middle pitch posed a choice between a 30-foot pillar or a rock climb involving steep ramps and wide cracks. The ascent concluded with a short 30 foot dark room climb. When we finished climbing we were glad to be able to retracing our steps to the car, saving a lot of energy by not having to break trail again.
For optimal conditions, attempt the route at a higher elevation with a healthy snowpack. Ice conditions tend to improve later in the season. Exercise caution with ice tools and crampons, as the canyon walls are made of sandstone and susceptible to damage. Swing lightly and tread carefully to minimize any unnecessary impact.
Overview of Ice Climbing:
For those unfamiliar with ice climbing, this section will share some additional details. Ice climbing is a thrilling and challenging outdoor activity that involves ascending frozen waterfalls, ice-covered rock faces, or other icy formations using specialized equipment. Here’s an overview of ice climbing and how to prepare for it:
Equipment:
- Ice Axes: Essential tools for gripping and swinging into the ice.
- Crampons: Attach to boots for traction on the ice.
- Helmet: Protects against falling ice and rock.
- Harness: Attaches to the rope for safety.
- Ice Screws: Anchors placed into the ice for protection.
- Ropes: Used for climbing and securing oneself to anchors.
- Clothing: Insulated and waterproof gear to stay warm and dry.
Types of Ice Climbing:
- Water Ice: Climbing frozen waterfalls.
- Alpine Ice: Ascending icy mountain faces.
- Mixed Climbing: Combining ice and rock climbing.
Techniques:
- Swinging: Proper ice axe placement is crucial.
- Kicking: Using crampons to kick into the ice.
- Front-Pointing: Climbing with toes pointing forward.
- Ice Screws: Placing anchors in the ice for safety.
- Belaying: Securing the rope to protect against falls. Normally performed by a climbing partner.
Safety Considerations:
- Weather Conditions: Check for stable and safe ice conditions.
- Avalanche Awareness: Be mindful of avalanche risks.
- Terrain Evaluation: Assess the stability of the ice and surrounding area.
- Communication: Establish clear signals with your climbing partner.
How to Prepare for Ice Climbing:
Training:
- Strength Training: Build upper body and core strength.
- Cardiovascular Fitness: Enhance endurance for sustained climbs.
- Technical Skills: Learn proper ice climbing techniques and safety measures.
Education:
- Take a Course: Enroll in an ice climbing course to learn from experienced instructors.
- First Aid Training: Acquire basic first aid skills, especially in cold environments.
Gear Check:
- Inspect Equipment: Ensure all gear is in good condition before each climb.
- Proper Sizing: Ensure a snug fit for boots, crampons, and harness.
Weather Monitoring:
- Check Conditions: Stay updated on weather forecasts and ice conditions.
- Temperature Considerations: Be aware of temperature changes affecting ice stability.
Partner Up:
- Climb with a Partner: Ice climbing is often a team activity for safety.
- Communication: Establish clear communication with your climbing partner.
Permits and Regulations:
- Check Local Regulations: Be aware of any permits or regulations for ice climbing in specific areas.
- Remember, safety is paramount in ice climbing, and proper preparation and education are key to a successful and enjoyable experience.
Remember, safety is the basis of any ice climbing endeavor, underscoring the importance of meticulous preparation and comprehensive education to ensure a successful and thoroughly enjoyable experience. In the realm of ice climbing, where the elements and terrain pose unique challenges, prioritizing safety is not just a recommendation but an absolute necessity.
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