Having just returned from an exhilarating four-day canyoneering escapade in the captivating landscapes of Costa Rica’s Bajos del Toro, our journey unfolded as a delightful blend of adventure and camaraderie. The sheer thrill of descending numerous canyons punctuated our days, each descent offering a unique perspective of this stunning region. The weather, seemingly tailored for our escapade, bestowed upon us days of radiant sunshine. In Bajos del Toro, every waterfall became an opportunity to revel in the simplicity and beauty of exploration. Our time here was not just about conquering nature’s challenges but about creating enduring memories with our daughters, etching the laughter, shared stories, and the breathtaking descents. The journey connected us fellow adventurers amidst the wonders of nature.
Our first and the longest canyon we descended was Mordor Canyon. This is a unique canyon starting in the mouth of Paos Volcano National Park! The park is famous for its semi-active volcano, and visitors can hike to the edge of the crater to witness the steaming, sulfuric lake below. There are also well-maintained trails leading through cloud forests, providing opportunities for birdwatching and enjoying the diverse flora. We chose to get real intimate with the volcano by descending the canyon coming out of Paos.
Gaining entry to this extraordinary canyon required collaboration with a landowner named Omar, who holds the key to accessing the terrain leading to the volcano. After coordinating access by reaching out to Omar via WhatsApp at +506.8603.2593, all the necessary arrangements were in place for our journey to explore this distinctive canyon. The associated fees amounted to approximately $10 per person.
Our exploration of Mordor Canyon began with parking our car. We ended up parking at Omar’s business. Depending on the crowds and who you speak to you might end up parking somewhere closer. This wasn’t that big of a deal for us as it wasn’t that much further to walk.
Our journey commenced with a hike along a well-trodden trail, traversing cow pastures and eventually winding through dense forests. Due to significant rain our approach was very muddy. The benefit of this was we didn’t see another person all day! Towards the top you enter the forest which may seem endless, but soon enough it will transition into a desolate landscape, the namesake of the route apparent in the sulfuric air. We swiftly descended the first drop. The initial drop, affected by the corrosive forces of sulfuric acid, posed a challenge that necessitated strategic anchoring using resilient 7mm cord. Notably, during our exploration, the bolts and anchors were found to be in good condition, a testament to the careful maintenance and popularity of Mordor Canyon.
Mordor Canyon’s enchanting water colors left an impression on us, captivating our senses with a brilliant azure blue that seemed almost surreal. However, this mesmerizing beauty was juxtaposed against the harsh reality of the canyon’s rocks, tainted by dissolved acid, creating a uniquely striking visual panorama. As we embarked on the descent into this natural wonder, the azure blue waters mirrored the celestial sky, while the rocky landscape bore witness to the transformative effects of sulfuric acid.
Navigating the subsequent 14 rappels became an exhilarating dance between gravity and precision. The dynamic nature of the terrain required not only technical expertise but also a keen eye for safe entry points and strategic jumps. Remarkably, many of the rappels provided the option for thrilling jumps, adding an extra layer of excitement to our descent.
The judicious scouting of each jump and slide became paramount, ensuring a safe passage through the rugged landscape. The rocky twists and turns of the canyon unveiled hidden pools, inviting us to partake in daring leaps and refreshing plunges. Despite the challenging conditions, the bolts and anchors held firm, providing a reassuring sense of security as we immersed ourselves in the canyon’s unique blend of natural beauty and adrenaline-pumping adventure.
Retracing our steps, some of us exited the canyon using the same route, just upstream of Middle Mordor’s initial drop (Wo Hen Hao). Others in our group continued downstream for some more canyoneering.
A couple notes for consideration are to:
- Check weather forecasts using weather apps like ‘Windy’, ensuring favorable conditions for our exploration. This canyon can flashflood which would be devastating.
- Wear a wetsuit. Even in the dry sections, donning wetsuits at the top proved advisable due to the relentless exposure to water during jumps and limited sun exposure.
Rating: 4C1 III R (v4a3 VI)
Raps: 14 rappels, max height 130ft
Time Commitment: 6-8h
Distance 3.5 miles
Approach: 2hr 2000ft elevation gain
Descent: 3-5hr 1.3 miles
Hike out: 1hr
Attempting to descend Mordor Canyon demands more than just a passing familiarity with canyoneering; it requires a level of expertise and experience. Novice adventurers, take heed, Mordor Canyon poses formidable challenges that demand a comprehensive understanding of technical canyoneering skills and a keen ability to problem solve and navigate unpredictable terrains.
The intricate topography of Mordor Canyon, coupled with its unique challenges such as rappels exposed to sulfuric acid and the potential for flash floods, mandates a high level of competence in canyoneering techniques. Seasoned judgment, honed through previous descents and exposure to diverse canyon environments, becomes crucial when confronted with the varying demands of this route.
Other sources:
- https://canyonmag.net/explore/costa-rica-part-ii-mordor-canyon/
- https://www.larepublica.net/noticia/montanistas-ticos-expusieron-el-canon-de-mordor-como-salido-del-senor-de-los-anillos
- https://www.toroscr.com/mordor
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